The largest city in Cambodia, Phnom Penh’s metropolitan punch positions it a world away from the peaceful, lush greenery that surrounds Siem Reap and Angkor Wat. Most of the things to do in Phnom Penh revolve around the destination’s history, it being inextricable from the city’s present state.
In Phnom Phen, you will experience how Cambodia’s economic hub is coping with rapid globalisation. The poverty that pervades life in the country is clearly visible, as is the modern industrialisation of Cambodia.
It’s a tricky city to love, but if you’re wondering what to see in Phnom Penh this guide should help you plan your visit.
How long you should stay in Phnom Penh depends on your mood while you’re there. I recommend spending two days in Phnom Penh at the most. It wasn’t my favourite place in Cambodia but there’s plenty to see and do in Phnom Penh.
What To Do In Phnom Penh: Main Attractions
Our bus ride from Siem Reap was blighted by heavy rain, and when we arrived in Phnom Penh we found our bus had been forced to wade through flooded streets. The river banks often burst open in Phnom Penh. Our rucksacks stowed underneath the coach were swimming.
Too nervous to delve into Phnom Penh’s nightlife after hearing scare stories and heeding warnings in our guide books, we spent our evening in the hostel’s rooftop bar, sheltering from the torrential downpour underneath its bamboo roof.
Two and a half months of backpacking was starting to take its toll, and we lounged on the hostel’s beanbags telling each other all the things we were going to eat when we got back on home soil.
Who knew how much one could miss a cup of tea made by their mum? Our homesickness intensified when a rat the size of a well-fed cat bolted across the bar’s floor.
There are lots of important cultural things to do and historic sights to see in Phnom Penh, but our adventures in the city were a little lacklustre because of our travellers’ fatigue.
Regardless, we got out to explore when daylight came. Here’s what to do in Phnom Penh, Cambodia.
1. Phnom Penh’s Royal Palace
The Royal Palace‘s ornate golden spires and tranquil ponds are a must-see in Phnom Penh. Within the palace’s compound lies the Silver Pagoda, whose extravagant floor glitters with five tons of silver tiles.
A marble staircase leads to the crystal Buddha, which sits proudly between a solid-gold Buddha, weighing 90kg and adorned with 2086 diamonds.
2. Cambodia’s National Museum
Just north of the Palace, the museum is made of a more reserved terracotta in the traditional Cambodian style, allowing visitors a glimpse of the golden age of Angkor. You can see the largest collection of Khmer sculptures there as well as models of traditional houses. The museum’s four pavilions face a quiet courtyard.
Remember to dress appropriately or you will be denied entry to the museum. I had to buy an ugly t-shirt so I could go inside.
3. Choeung Ek Killing Fields
The aptly named killing fields are a harrowing experience but travellers shouldn’t miss this haunting insight into Cambodia’s violent past. A headset will relate the details of the country’s turmoil under the Khmer Rouge regime by the Vietnamese as you wander the grounds in which so many lost their lives.
I was horrified to learn that the rags and litter protruding from the ground were the clothes and bones of the victims, and the stacks of skulls on display are a sight that will stay with you forever. I didn’t take any pictures, because it didn’t feel right – but other tourists snapped away.
One of the most unforgettable things I saw that day was the young family living in a shack on the edge of the fields, whose tiny children asked us for money. The violence of the Rouge regime may have eased in Cambodia in 1979, but suffering still pervades the country.
Book your Killing Fields tour below.
4. Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum
In 1975 Phnom Penh was choked with up to 2 million refugees from the war between the then US-backed government and the Khmer Rouge. The city fell to the Khmer Rouge in 1975, who completely emptied it of civilians and allowed it to crumble for several years. The city’s small class of skilled or educated professionals was systematically murdered by Pol Pot’s henchmen, or fled into exile.
The S-21 prison is a stark reminder of the suffering that shaped life in Cambodia, and the fact it was converted into a prison from a school is shocking. More than 14,000 people were tortured here before being killed here or at the Killing Fields over the Rouge’s four years of power; only 8 prisoners survived.
Tourists will see disturbing images and torture instruments so if you decide to visit the Genocide Museum, prepare yourself.
5. Phnom Penh’s Markets
Visiting the markets in Phnom Penh is a sensory overload. I winced as I navigated my way through the stalls as huge, writhing fish gaped at me from over-spilling buckets and hawkers yelled at each other across the wet pathways.
The central market, a 1930s Art Deco covered market near the Riverfront (Sisowath Quay) district, sells everything from flowers to video games and this is where I bought all my souvenirs from Cambodia.
The Night Market is the best place to go at night in Phnom Penh for a cheap dinner and fun people watching.
6. A River cruise
If you’re looking for relaxing things to do in Phnom Penh, why not make use of the Mekong and Tonle Sap?
There’s a river cruise for every budget in Phnom Penh. Indulge in fine dining and unlimited drinks on a boat that once belonged to the Cambodian royal family or head onto the water for a quick river experience before you head out for the night.
As you cruise, look out for some of Phnom Penh’s riverside gems: the Japanese Friendship Bridge and Koh Pich Island.
7. A street food tour
One of the top attractions in Phnom Penh is its street food scene, but the markets can be a little overwhelming to the average tourist and the roadside stands can be confusing.
A destination’s cuisine is always best experienced with the guidance of a local, so book a street food tour to learn about Cambodian gastronomy.
Try banana leaf salad, fried crickets Khmer curries, and learn about prahok which is a crushed, salted and fermented fish paste used in Cambodia cooking. Wash it all down with locally crafted beer.
8. Sunset On The Boardwalk
Sisowath Quay is a 3km strip running along the west bank of the Tonle Sap River. It’s the perfect place for an evening stroll after you’ve spent the day sightseeing in Phnom Penh. This is one of the best things to do at night in Phnom Penh.
So much of a tourist’s experience of the city focuses on Phnom Penh’s past; but this is where you’ll witness modern day Phnom Penh. There are bars, restaurants and cafes.
Stop at the Foreign Correspondents Club (FCC) at 363 Sisowath Quay for a cocktail overlooking the river or join in one of the outdoor aerobics classes taking place on the promenade!
9. Daughters of Cambodia Centre
Daughters of Cambodia is an important initiative that helps women in Cambodia leave sex work by providing them with new jobs and subsequently, an income and skills that will help them survive their experience in the long-term.
Sex trafficking is a huge issue in Cambodia and this is the best place to learn about the fight and do something to contribute.
There’s a fair-trade shop, a cafe serving delicious food and a spa where you can spend your money to help the victims of sex trafficking. The centre also provides counselling and healthcare to the women working there.
10. Silver Pagoda
Located inside the Royal Palace compound on the south side, the Silver Pagoda is one of the other most popular tourist attractions in Phnom Penh. There are gold and silver statues.
The gleaming silver tiled floor is a sight to behold! There are over 5,000 tiles that were laid during King Norodom Sihanouk’s pre-Khmer Rouge reign.
You’ll need to remove your shoes before you visit.
11. Wat Phnom
The city is flat aside from this hill, atop of which you’ll find a pagoda set in a beautiful park. It’s a great place for a stroll in the shade β just beware of the monkeys and the many people trying to get money from you.
Wat Phnom has been rebuilt four times, most recently in the 1920s. The ashes of King Ponhea Vat (who reigned from 1405 to 1467) are held here and there are some incredible murals.
The grand eastern staircase of Wat Phnom is guarded by lions and snake balustrades. Cambodians visit to pray for good luck and when their wishes come true, they return to lay an offering.
12. Silk Island
Koh Dach, or Silk Island as it’s known, is the place to go to learn all about Cambodian silk weaving and how local crafters are trying to revive this pre-Angkor trade. It’s located around one hour from Phnom Penh and you can reach it by tuk tuk, then it’s a short ferry ride to the island.
The island is a peaceful place that gives weary travellers a little respite from the city’s hustle and bustle. You’ll get to see workers creating unique pieces in wooden houses β remember to take a tip for them as the tour is free.
The island is best explored by bike, unless you don’t mind a lot of walking.
13. Bassac Lane
One of the best things to do at night in Phnom Penh is to take a walk down this street. Located in Tonle Bassac, this street is the place to go for nightlife in Phnom Penh. It’s often heaving with locals on mopeds, tourists and expats alike.
Shop at the unique boutiques and grab dinner and drinks at the various bars and restaurants. Prices are higher than elsewhere in Cambodia but you’re paying for the atmosphere.
I’d be interested to hear if any other travellers have experienced Phnom Penh’s nightlife, and whether our apprehension about the place was justified. Have you explored the city solo? I’d love to hear about it in the comments!
More tours and activities to do in Phnom Penh
Where to stay in Phnom Penh
We arrived in Phnom Penh from Siem Reap late at night and had to bargain with overzealous moto drivers for a ride to his friend’s guesthouse. If you don’t like what they show you, you can tell your driver to take you somewhere else. It’s less stressful all round if you book accommodation before you arrive though!
On the luxury end of the scale, some of the best hotels in Phnom Penh are the frangipani-scented Raffles Hotel and the Rosewood, with its elegant rooftop bar.
You can get a lot for a mid-range budget in Cambodia. Penh House & Jungle Addition, The Kabiki and Pavilion all have outdoor pools that will provide a welcome slice of tranquility after sightseeing in Phnom Penh’s grimy streets.
There’s plenty of cheap accommodation in Phnom Penh for backpackers. Mad Monkey is best for those looking for a fun crowd to enjoy Phnom Penh’s nightlife with, and Envoy is a popular choice.
You can search and book your ideal accommodation in Phnom Penh using the booking.com box below.
Booking.comHow to get to Phnom Penh
If you’re travelling from Siem Reap to Phnom Penh like I did, you can go by bus, private taxi, fly (the fastest but usually most expensive option) or take the ferry.
Coming from the UK? You can fly to Phnom Penh from London, with a stop in Hong Kong or Bangkok. Search for flight prices and times with different airlines using Skyscanner.
There’s a premium lounge at the airport which is handy if you have a long wait. It’s best to arrange a private transfer from the airport to your accommodation when you arrive so you don’t have to deal with the drivers outside.
The drive from Siem Reap to Phnom Penh takes around six hours. For a clean, safe and reliable journey, you can hire a driver here to take you.
You can book a bus ticket from Ho Chi Minh in Vietnam to Phnom Penh here.
Discerning travellers might like to book a three day cruise from Siem Reap to Phnom Penh along the Tonle Sap River. You’ll get an important glimpse into everyday life in rural Cambodia along the riverbanks.
By train, there are various class options for every budget.
How to get around Phnom Penh
We hired a moto driver to take us around Phnom Penh’s attractions, just like we did for our first day at Angkor Wat. He handed us a laminated ‘menu’ of activities, and we chose which we wanted to do. Shooting range after the Tuol Sleng museum? No thanks.
Important travel info for Phnom Penh
You’ll need a visa to enter Cambodia. The rules change sometimes, so always check the UK government’s advice when planning your trip.
The traffic in Phnom Penh is bewildering to the new arrival, and our moto driver warned us to keep a tight grip on our bags. Bag snatching is rife in the city. A money belt and anti-theft backpack will keep your belongings more secure.
You’ll need travel insurance if you’re travelling in Cambodia. You can get a quote using the World Nomads box below.
Use my travel resources page to save money on booking your trip.
More Cambodia travel guides
My guide to visiting Siem Reap
A weird taxi ride from Bangkok to Cambodia’s border
Go further in South East Asia
What to know about Chiang Mai’s ethical elephant park
Hiking Mount Rinjani in Lombok
Should you visit Nha Trang in Vietnam?
What to do in Ho Chi Minh City
I hope you’ve found this list of what to do in Phnom Penh useful for your trip!
Phnom Penh, the ‘Pearl of Asia’, is a city of contrasts and home to 2.2 million people from every strand of Cambodia’s society. As tourists wander the promenade bordering the Mekong River, street kids with bare feet and hungry mouths weave between bikes carrying private international school kids in crisp white polo shirts, who grip their driver’s waists and are flanked by security guards.
It’s a place you’ll want to get in and out of quickly, but Phnom Penh is a must-visit in Cambodia.
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Ryan Biddulph says
Loved the recount Dannielle! I stayed in PP for a month; never a problem at all. So safe, and we walked quite a bit, from our apartment near Central Market all the way to the river, twice daily. At all hours too, or at least, until like midnight. Never felt unsafe, and the folks were SO kind and helpful. Love Cambodia.
Ryan
Laura says
Nice to hear an honest account of travelling! Being home sick sucks! But it still looks and sounds amazing. We haven’t made it to South East Asia yet but would avoid the nightlife too (we’re not into it, lol). π
Tim says
I stayed in PP in 2013 and loved it, never once having a problem with safety and always feeling at ease. You are right about your description of the Killing Fields and S-21…a necessary visit but daunting and disturbing all the same.
Stefan says
It grew on me. It was a bit hard at first because of all the poverty – everywhere, but it really grew on me. That Killing Tree at the killing fields really hit home π
Nic from Roaming Renegades says
Great post, it’s one of the places we are really looking forward to seeing. Looks like there is a great mix of things to do and see. This article will come in very handy, thanks!
Casey says
Your descriptions of the city are excellent and on point. Sounds like an intense 2 days! That’s a lot of harrowing and emotional history to take in. Though Phnom Penh has never called me, I loved Siem Reap, which seems much calmer, based on your descriptions. I’ll make it to the capital sometime! Also, I LOVE your black and white picture of the motorbikes.
Amanda Zeisset says
I second Casey, great description. I’m not into cities but looks like PP could be worth a quick trip.
Karina says
Baring witness to intense poverty is something I will never adjust to. I can see how this element of your trip would weigh heavily on your heart. Thank you for sharing your experiences with us.
April
Olga says
Oh, that market looks absolutely fantastic! Like a small flower paradise π
Sophie says
Great post! I haven’t been yet but it’s certainly on my list!
Aileen says
Great coverage! I haven’t been to Phnom Penh yet but it’s on my list. Anyhow, your post just absolutely made me miss Asia.
Alli says
My favourite thing in Phnom Penh was a morning market food tour. It was so lovely! You listed a lot of fantastic must sees here, especially experiencing the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum.
Helena says
I’ve never been in Cambodia, but would really like to visit someday. I’ve read a bit about Choeung Ek Killing Fields and would like to see it myself, even though I’m sure it will be different experience being there.
I really like the design of your blog btw! π
Revati says
I’m so interested in the dark tourism of Phnom Penh, but I just don’t think I’m ready for it. And I don’t know if 2 days is enough to let something as intense as that sink it. Did you think so too?
christine says
This is great! I am thinking about going in October π
Vicky and Buddy says
I haven’t been to Phnom Penh. I would imagine that if so many people warned you about certain aspects that it was probably best that you listened.
Lieurene Tran says
Great post! I would love to visit Cambodia and I am thinking of going this year soon. I will keep everything you have been in mind since I would love to see them myself especially the markets
Kelly says
Lovely blog. I’m off to spend time in Cambodia soon so it’s nice to read someone’s first hand account of what to expect π
thekateallen says
I’m thinking about hopping to PP for a long weekend that is coming up and would love to know around what you spent? (Obviously not flights) but hostel and all the trips etc.