Nestled on the southern side of the Scottish/English border, the traditional market town of Berwick-Upon-Tweed might not be the first place that comes to mind for a romantic weekend away. Ha
ppily though, we found that Berwick offers a lot to couples looking to indulge in good food and fun outdoors activities during a slow UK break.
Berwick was pulled to and fro in border wars between England and Scotland for over 400 years, changing hands more than once in the battle between the two kingdoms. Today, it is resolutely the northernmost town in England – but its dalliance with Scotland is still detectable here and there.
Is Berwick-Upon-Tweed worth visiting? If you’re looking for a romantic weekend by the coast that’s easy to get to from the north of England or Scotland, this friendly town will welcome you and your bae with open arms.
What to do during a weekend break in Berwick-Upon-Tweed
My fiancé and I are just back from a weekend in Berwick with Visit Berwick and everywhere we went, the locals greeted us with warm smiles and witty comments about the weather, delivered in that delightfully infectious brogue that sits proudly somewhere between Scottish and Northumbrian. I immediately felt at home.
Here’s my guide to things to do in Berwick, the most fought over town in Europe.
Where to eat in Berwick-Upon-Tweed
We had a gorgeous breakfast at Foxtons Winebar. The fry up was everything a proper fry up should be, and my poached eggs and mushrooms on toast was perfectly cooked.
If you’re just after a decent cup of coffee and a bite to eat during the day, definitely pop into The Mule On Rouge. They have an extensive bagel menu and their coffee, like most served in Berwick, is locally roasted Northern Edge. Plus, it’s just a really unique establishment! They sell vinyl records as well as hot drinks, and the shop itself is housed in an old photography centre.
Be warned: most coffee shops and cafes in Berwick are shut on Sundays, so it’s worth stocking the fridge in your accommodation with local produce and having breakfast in bed. That’s what we did, and it rounded off our romantic weekend in Berwick on a full-bellied, slightly lazy and thoroughly satisfied note.
For lunch, Lock, Stock ‘n’ Burgers is bound to please. Both our burgers were incredible, and they do a mean cocktail too! If you fancy getting creative (and competitive), opt for ‘The Apprentice’ and build your own burgers, then decide whose is tastiest.
We ate dinner at the continental style bar called Atelier. The ambience is perfect for a romantic supper for two, and they serve extravagant sharing platters loaded with meats and cheeses galore. Does a better dish for date night exist? I’d argue no.
For a special occasion meal in Berwick, Audela has excellent reviews and offers a fine dining experience.
Depending when you’re visiting Berwick, you should also check The Mule On Rouge’s Facebook page to see if your stay coincides with one of their pop-up theme nights.
We went to a fabulous Mexican night there on the Friday of our weekend in Berwick and loved the cosy atmosphere and delicious food.
They cater for all diets and I jumped at the chance to try something new, going vegan for my main. No regrets!
Where to drink in Berwick
After wine at Atelier, we had a nightcap in Berwick’s micro-pub, The Curfew. The name is fitting, because last orders is at 10.30pm! Nonetheless, the smallest pub in Berwick is also the busiest, so pop in if you like real ales.
We also had a drink in The Brewers Arms on Marygate, which has a laid-back vibe and friendly staff.
Outdoors activities in Berwick
Berwick-Upon-Tweed’s culinary delights might leave you craving a bit of fresh air and exercise, and you won’t be lost for outdoor activities to burn off some of those calories there.
If weather permits, get outside and explore. Walking around the Elizabethan town walls is a great way to learn about Berwick’s history and you can enjoy sweeping views over the town. Alternatively, amble along the river for a close up view of Royal Border Bridge.
More adventurous couples might like to take advantage of Berwick’s location on the River Tweed to try a new sport together. Tom and I tried our hand at rowing with Berwick Amateur Rowing Club during our weekend in Berwick and it will always be my most vivid memory of our trip.
I have to admit that I felt a bit apprehensive about getting on the water in drizzly conditions but after a quick lesson on technique in the Victorian boathouse, I was soon rowing merrily along the Tweed. This is one of the more unique things to do in Berwick, and I definitely recommend it!
Not keen on getting too active? Take a romantic boat trip on the River Tweed. Sit back, relax and take in the views – no paddle required!
If you prefer to get around on wheels rather than by water, you can hire electric bikes from Berwick Cycles and zoom off into the distance. Try the coastal path for incredible views.
One of the great things about Berwick is its proximity to some spectacular British beaches. Our Autumn weekend break wasn’t exactly the best time to hit the beach, but we couldn’t resist a quick detour on the way home.
There are a few beaches you can get to while you’re in Berwick: a sandy beach to the north of the mouth of the River Tweed, Spittal Beach, the gorgeous Fishermans Haven and the one we visited, Cocklawburn Beach. Windswept, but magnificent!
Unusual things to do in Berwick
We rode our electric bikes to Chain Bridge Honey Farm, which is about five miles from town. It’s a working honey farm but it has a hugely informative visitors centre, where you can learn about all things honey. I found it super fascinating and learned a lot!
There’s also a quirky cafe housed in a double decker bus located on the farm where you can sample local produce, and a beautiful bees garden that would be the perfect place for a romantic stroll on a sunny day. Unfortunately the sun didn’t appear for our visit, but we still had fun in the rain.
Berwick also has a handful of treasure-chest like vintage shops. I don’t know about anyone else, but my fella isn’t keen on being dragged around the shops usually – vintage shops though, he can abide.
We spent an hour mooching around the town and browsing all the weird and wonderful curiosities.
Head to West Street and Bridge Street for independent shops in Berwick.
If the northern weather doesn’t play nice for your romantic weekend break in Berwick-Upon-Tweed, test your teamwork at the Escape Room.
We were troopers and braved the downpours, but this is probably one of the best options if you’re looking for things to do on a rainy day in Berwick, whether you’re there with your partner, family or friends.
Another place to take shelter on rainy days in Berwick is The Maltings. Catch a show at the theatre or watch the latest release at the cinema on date night.
The destination boasts a packed calendar of events throughout the year – the Literary Festival was taking place during our visit.
It’s worth checking if anything will be happening when you plan your trip to Berwick. You might just be surprised!
Where to stay in Berwick
We stayed at a gorgeous boutique called No 11B Boutique Rooms. I can’t recommend it enough! It’s right on Castlegate so all of Berwick’s best attractions are literally on your doorstep.
We stayed in number 5 which was beautifully presented with lots of little touches that made us feel at home and well looked after. It felt like a luxury hotel with all of the home comforts you miss when you stay at a normal hotel.
Oh, and the owners also have the chip shop next door, which smelled amazing when we passed!
Check out more accommodation options for Berwick-Upon-Tweed on booking.com
How to get to Berwick
The A1 passes through Berwick. The drive takes around 1.5 hours from either Newcastle or Edinburgh.
If you’re travelling to Berwick by train, you can go direct from Newcastle or Edinburgh. It’s on the East Coast Main Line railway. Hop off at Berwick-Upon-Tweed railway station.
It wouldn’t be difficult to add a stop in Berwick-Upon-Tweed if you were spending a week in England before travelling to Scotland on a visit to the UK from overseas.
I hope you found my guide to things to do in Berwick helpful! As a couple, we plan frequent mini breaks in the UK and treat them like short holidays, so I’m always sharing local travel inspiration as well as guides for destinations further afield.
If you’d like to keep in touch, you can follow me on Instagram, via my Facebook page, or on Twitter. To see more of my blog posts, sign up to receive new ones directly to your inbox when they go live.
Check out my UK travel section to see where else I’ve been. Here’s some UK city break inspiration for you:
My guide to a fun, cheap weekend in Liverpool
A foodie weekend in Tees Valley
6 cities to visit in the North of England
How to have a magical Autumn break in Cheshire
The ultimate Newcastle city break guide
Click here to join my UK Travel Deals group on Facebook. We share lots of great ways to save money on UK trips and fun ideas for days out and places to visit in the UK.
As mentioned at the beginning of this post, we visited Berwick as part of a partnership with the Visit Berwick. Views are my own.
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Gillian Barclay says
I used to live in Berwick – when I was young! I must have walked those walls a thousand times! Take a look at Helensburgh in Argyll and Bute – home of the inventor of television as well as the masterpiece Hill House of Charles Rennie Mackintosh amongst other stars of Victorian engineering era. The restaurants in this town are utterly astonishing and all 40 mins by train from Glasgow and the airport. It is just beautiful!
Chloe - New Girl in Toon says
Such a shame you had such awful weather – it looks so wet! I’ve been very curious to explore Berwick on Tweed for a while now but was never sure if it would be worth the trip or not. Definitely feeling inspired after reading this and am going to add it to my adventure list for next year!
PAULINE CARR says
Thanks for sharing your Berwick upon Tweed short break.
Live in Berwick and love it.
Hope others will come and visit this unique border town.