During our Globe Travel Centre tour of Kerala in India, one of our standout experiences was the night we spent on a luxury houseboat on the Kerala Backwaters. We slept in one of Xandari Riverscapes‘ private houseboats, which depart near Alleppey.
Kerala’s serene backwaters are the main draw for travellers visiting the state in South India and I understand why. Our houseboat tour from Alleppey was an adventure we’ll remember forever and it’s definitely one of the most romantic things to do in Kerala for couples.
The houseboats that creep along the still Vembanad lake in Kerala are called ‘kettuvallams‘ in the local Malayalam language. They’re converted rice barges made from wood harvested from local jackfruit tree plantations, hand-stitched by local craftsmen using coconut fiber rope. Fish oil is used to strengthened the ropes. The tourism industry that thrives on Kerala’s backwaters commendably keeps traditional methods alive.
Our Private Kerala Backwaters Houseboat Cruise
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Our houseboat was one of the ten owned by Xandari Riverscapes. Our boat slept two but there are of course options for larger parties. I wasn’t expecting it to be so spacious inside!
As we boarded the houseboat in Alleppey, we were greeted by our crew: a driver, chef and guide. These three lovely men, who were all local and so hugely knowledgeable about the area, stayed with us onboard for the entire cruise and made sure we had a safe, comfortable but most importantly for us, authentic experience.
We were immediately handed coconuts with paper straws (there’s no plastic onboard), and we drank them up on the roof terrace, taking in the views as we sailed away.
The chef had checked what time we preferred to eat and if we had any dietary requirements before we set off, and lunch was phenomenal.
Cooked onboard and served in the typical Kerala way on a banana leaf hacked straight from the trees overhead, there was Kerala white rice grown in the paddies that surrounded us, banana chips, vegetables, pickles, locally caught fish and a chicken curry dish.
Our portions were constantly topped up and we just about managed to squeeze in the Vermicelli kheer pudding we were served for dessert!
After lolling around on the upper deck in the afternoon sun while our lunch digested, we stopped and joined some other Xandari Riverscapes guests for a short canoe trip. In the motorised canoe we trundled down some of the narrower tributaries of the backwaters to see local life up close.
We were sad to learn from our guide that due to climate change, the water level here rises two inches every year and homes are often flooded in rainy season. It was a sombre reminder of the need to look after our planet and I felt awful for the people whose homes were ruined. I wasn’t sure of ways to help, but we left large tips to at least help the staff on our cruise.
School kids in colourful uniforms ran along the banks while women in beautiful sarees scrubbed pots or washed clothes in the shallows, some up to their waists in water.
The air in the backwaters’ otherwise tranquil heartland was punctuated with the slap, slap, slap of women beating their laundry against the smooth, flat stones in the water in front of each house. We saw water snakes, chickens, ducks and even a few dogs.
Back on the boat, we asked our guides to stop at the local bottle shop for some beer and wine – just as the heavens opened. We joined the crowd of men peering through the metal grate and our guide explained each person was permitted to purchase six bottles – though they didn’t mind if that was six bottles of beer or six bottles of vodka…
As the rain pelted down, we closed the side panels and huddled together on the lower deck, sipping Indian red wine. The sky splintered with lightening all around us. Cocooned in our own little hideaway, it was so dramatic but very romantic!
After lunch I’d expected my stomach to be full for days, but somehow I was ready for dinner. We had chicken curry, huge king prawns, more super spicy pickle, a pink yogurt dish, plantain chips, veg, and okra. Dessert was fresh pineapple, all beautifully presented.
We slept very well in the air-conditioned bedroom. With 14 sq foot, there was plenty of space to stretch out!
Next morning I showered in the en-suite bathroom (you just give the crew a heads-up 15 mins before you want to use hot water so they can get it ready). I certainly wasn’t expecting to find a proper bathroom onboard!
The sun was back out so we relished the final few moments on the terrace. Flanked on either side by rice terraces stretching as far as the eye can see, we glided through the coconut and banana trees back towards Alleppey.
After a light breakfast, it was time to put our feet back on dry land. We both could have happily just stayed onboard and sailed away into the sunset, but we had a reservation at a beach resort called Xandari Pearl. The beach was calling, and it turned out to be the perfect way to end our Globe Travel Centre tour of Kerala!
Our night in floating accommodation on the Kerala backwaters was sensational and I think it should be on every traveller’s Kerala itinerary. This is definitely one of the most romantic experiences for couples in Kerala and it’s something we’ll talk about fondly forever.
Useful information for staying on a houseboat in Kerala
Xandari Riverscapes offer a minimum of two night stays. Rates per day for backwater cruises will depend on the company you go with as the houseboats vary in terms of facilities.
The best time to do a houseboat trip on Kerala’s backwaters is November, which was when we visited. The rainy season had finished and the weather, though we had a storm, was perfect. I felt like we’d experienced every season!
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We were guests of Globe Travel Centre and Xandari Resorts during our time in Kerala. Views are my own.
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