Halong Bay is the main sight that draws tourists to Vietnam, and for good reason. Consisting of some 2000 islets scattered around the Bay of Tonkin, its name translates to ‘where the dragon descends in to the sea’, and your first glimpse of the World Heritage site will make you understand why.
Is Halong Bay just a tourist trap?
The ominous towering stacks of jungle-clad limestone loom out of emerald green water and create what looks like an impenetrable wall. Legend has it that to the gods sent a family of dragons to assist the Vietnamese in defending their country against invading ships. The dragons spat jewels and jade over the bay, forming the islands that exist today.
The best way to experience all of Halong Bay’s charms is by spending a few nights on a junk boat cruising the waters. Book a tour in Hanoi and give Halong City a miss. You don’t come to this part of Vietnam for the mainland’s attractions.
Our vessel was called Dugong and had wooden decor with a seventies feel, a large dining room and an upper deck for sunbathing, but it wasn’t exactly tanning weather.
A UNESCO site?
I was disappointed to find that the tourist industry is really sabotaging Halong Bay’s natural beauty. There were so many boats at points that it almost felt like being stuck in a really wet traffic jam in the UK, and the hoards of tourists on the beaches we visited were really off-putting. Yes, I realise the hypocrisy of a backpacker complaining about other tourists, but surely there’s another way to let travellers experience Halong Bay without it becoming a polluted spaghetti junction?
The most upsetting thing was that the water was really dirty, and plastic bottles floated around all of the boats. I’ve already mentioned that I really hate kayaking after my capsizing disaster in New Zealand, so when we were told we could kayak around the caves, I wasn’t exactly leaping into my little plastic boat full of enthusiasm. I really didn’t fancy falling in that water.
Caves in Halong Bay
The bay’s scattered islands are carved with wind- and wave-eroded grottoes, and the stories they echo with are mesmerising. We cruised past Đầu Gỗ cave and asked our tour guide about the mess of wooden bars that we could see inside. He told us that they are the remnants of sharpened wooden columns built under the water level by the order of Trần Hưng Đạo commander in order to sink Mongolian invaders’ ships in the 13th century.
The caves you visit will vary depending on which tour company you choose. The Indochina Junk tour even includes dinner in Sung Sot Cave! Some of them can get a little crowded (sort it out, Vietnam) and obviously they are dark in places so a torch is useful.
I felt like I was in Disney Land, and it was hard to believe that this other-worldly place I was walking was a natural formation.
The sheer size of the caves really took me by surprise. In fact, Surprise Cave is named so because when tourists enter the gap in the cliff and suddenly find themselves in what can only be described as an other-worldly, fairy tale land, all they can think is, “Wow”. Stalactites adorn the roof of the cave like grotesque chandeliers and light streams in through the entrance and exit, reminding you that the world outside still exists.
Many of the islands are accessible, and a climb is so worth it for the view.
Floating villages in Halong Bay
There are four fishing villages in Halong Bay, home to around 1600 residents who live on the 200 species of fish in the area. Their simplistic way of life made me embarrassed about everything I’ve ever taken for granted and every #FirstWorldProblem I’ve moaned about.
It’s crazy to think that while we’re agonising over facebook likes, there are people whose life looks like this.
Wonder if number 28 ever gets any post?
Sunset over Halong Bay
There’s a quiet serenity that sort of settles over the whole bay, and at sunset this is heightened. Lazing on the deck with a cold beer each night was pretty breathtaking!
The bay was magnificent at night; the islets huge and black behind us and the other boats’ lights reflecting on the water as women in tiny rowing boats moved between the larger boats, with no torch to guide their way.
There are jetties built on numerous islands to allow tourists to descend upon their golden beaches, though again the usual stops are overcrowded.
Many of the islands in Halong Bay, such as Dau Be, are dotted with lakes, but my tour didn’t visit any of these. Though I really think UNESCO need to take greater steps to prevent Halong Bay’s ecosystem being spoiled further, I would still recommend a cruise in Halong Bay to anyone travelling Vietnam.
Book a one day Halong Bay cruise with Expedia
Plan your trip with the Lonely Planet guide book
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Read about the secluded beaches of Mui Ne and the fishing village in Nha Trang.
Ryan Biddulph says
Hi Dannielle,
Fair review here. I did hear it was a kinda touristy spot so we skipped on it and did Ninh Binh instead. Loved it! Similar to Halong Bay in that karsts dominate the region but it was off the grid, quiet and totally peaceful. People are taken around on small little pads paddled by Vietnamese women. Me and my wife did the tour for $5 per person. We were led back to their home, enjoyed a cup of tea and they tool us around for like 4 hours. Amazing experience, this Halong Bay alternate was.
Thanks for the share.
Ryan
alison abbott says
All I’ve been reading about is how touristy Halong Bay has become. It’s a shame they have allowed it to get so spoiled.
Sanjana @ Green Global Travel says
Such beautiful pictures! Sad to hear about the plastic in the water though. Sounds like a great visit, thanks for sharing!
Claudia says
There are several places I have visited that left me wondering what the fuss was all about. I have been to Bocas del Toro, in Panama, expecting to find a paradise and all I could see was garbage and many more tourists than the place could actually accommodate. It is sad to see that nothing is done to preserve the beauty of these kind of places!
Dannielle Lily says
Claudia, I think that’s the worst disappointment ever! It almost puts me off going to some of the places I really really dream about, in case they leave me unimpressed.
Els says
A real shame that it has become so touristy. I’d probably look for alternatives like the one Ryan mentioned in the comments above!
Dannielle Lily says
Thanks Els! If I go back to Vietnam, I definitely will.
Tim says
I spent some time in Halong Bay back in 2007 and even back then I was surprised how dense the tourist traffic was so I get where you are coming from. They really do need to sort it out; maybe a restriction on boats would help.
Dannielle Lily says
I think so too Tim, and I’m surprised there are no such restrictions in place yet if it’s been like this for years!
Drew says
You can’t blame UNESCO for the conditions! This is on the people and businesses of Vietnam to maintain the site as it is all over the rest of the planet! Money may come from NGOs and other NFPs but ultimately it is the people’s responsibility including tourists, tour agencies and locals alike! It’s probably the most expensive day trip/tour in Vietnam and a percentage of that should go to maintaining its sustainability! I’ve seen this problem and solution and various sites around the globe!
FYI: That photo of you on the NYC subway station is less than 5 blocks from my home! Small world!
Dannielle Lily says
Hi Drew,
I’m not blaming UNESCO for the conditions at all, and I agree that it’s Vietnam AND tourists’ responsibility to look after Halong Bay. Hopefully as people become more educated, the environment can be saved.
I changed trains at that station while I lived in New York – weird! Thanks for commenting.
Dannielle Lily says
Thanks Keisha, it is a must-see!
Annika - Live Laugh Explore says
Oh the sunset pictures are beautiful!! Sad to hear about all the garbage though, that would be off putting for me as well. UNESCO can actually remove sites from the list if they ‘don’t hold up to the standards’ so let’s see if it gets that bad ..:/
Dannielle Lily says
I hope it doesn’t come to that Annika. Halong Bay deserves to be preserved.
John says
Great insight! We’re actually trying to get over to Vietnam next month and have been debating over the Halong Bay trip. We’re now definitely leaning towards taking one of the junk boat trips. We have to, right? Just look at those pics! 😉
Dannielle Lily says
Hope you guys enjoy it! The quality of the boats can vary so I’d shop around 🙂
backpack babe says
great post!! and i love the honest opinion that UNESCO should be protecting the eco system there a bit more, though i will say, it looks absolutely beautiful in the pictures! especially that purple sunset <3 can't wait to explore it! xx
Dannielle Lily says
I’m not sure if the responsibility lies with UNESCO or the tourism agencies and tourist themselves, but something does need to be done! Still definitely a bucket list destination though 🙂 xx
Kemkem says
I see what you mean about the caves being similar to the ones in Malaga. Incredibly so! The sunsets are gorgeous. Getting harder and harder to find a place that is not touristy 🙂