Christchurch was the first destination on my self-planned bus tour of New Zealand’s South Island back in the summer of 2013. It was the furthest I could possibly be from home and a destination I’d always wondered about. Tired and worn out from our 48 hour journey, my travel buddy C and I still managed to see as much as possible of Christchurch as it proudly rebuilds itself after the devastating earthquake in 2011.
Leaving the heatwave in Scotland behind for Autumnal New Zealand was a slight shock to the system, but Christchurch was the ideal slow-paced city to recover from jet lag after that mammoth journey.
Where to stay in Christchurch
Kiwi Base Camp was our first of many hostels, and a perfect introduction to traveling for me. Our shared taxi from the airport dropped some boys off at a converted prison where guests sleep in the old cells! Sounds like a cool experience not but probably not ideal after a long plane journey.
Most of the other people at Kiwi Base Camp were practically permanent fixtures – nomads who had settled there for a few months; either for work or just the friendly atmosphere at the hostel. I spent my first night in New Zealand listening to music in the hostel’s outdoor seating area; drinking Isaac’s Cider, eating food from a Lebanese van nearby, and taking in everyone’s stories.
From a guy who had been on the move since he was 3 months old, to a girl who had came to New Zealand to travel 5 months before and still hadn’t got past Christchurch, everyone had a story. Even better, most of them had already done their time in Thailand or Australia and readily offered their advice or envious comments about how much fun C and I were going to have in the coming months. Each one of the people in that courtyard had a different reason for traveling – some went to see, and some went just to go.
We breakfasted on the delicious homemade bread that the hostel provides for guests every morning, and set out to explore.
Check out booking.com’s best accommodation options in Christchurch if you’d like more options!
Things to see and do in Christchurch in a day
The weather in June was ideal for strolling around the city, with crispy brown leaves swirling in the breeze. We walked along the River Avon to the Botanical Gardens, then visited Canterbury Museum.
The next sight to take in was the remains of the Cathedral and the Transitional Cardboard Cathedral that is replacing it. We got directions from a local with no teeth and he told us how he had been in New York when the earthquake happened, and had watched his hometown crumble on TV.
It was fascinating to see what a city looked like after it had been torn apart. The earthquake damage of 2010 and 2011 was all too clear. I’ll never forget the eerie sight of abandoned cafes; bowls of soup fermenting on tables and cream cakes smeared against display cabinets. Christchurch is dusting itself off and rearranging itself though; with outdoor public spaces dedicated to the community replacing now unsafe buildings like dance studios and gyms.
We browsed the Re: Start Container Mall and had delicious coffees at Hummingbird, then sampled all the lovely Manuka Honey cosmetics that we soon realised could be found everywhere in NZ.
Locals can plug their iPods in to this Dance O Mat, so dance or exercise classes whose studios have been damaged can take place outdoors now.
During our time in the South Island City we wondered why anyone would stay somewhere prone to natural disasters as devastating as earthquakes, but the positivity of the revival scheme really made us feel that Christchurch was determined to come back stronger after the last earthquake that struck.
Next stop Lake Tekapo!
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Is Christchurch on your travel bucket list? Get planning with the Lonely Planet guide to New Zealand’s South Island.
Bethaney - Flashpacker Family says
I’m from Christchurch and honestly so glad to be out of there. Even after four years there is still so much recovery work to be done in the city. For us, it’s not an enjoyable place to be because it brings up all the horrible memories from the earthquake. Was a really tough time for us.
Abbi says
Hi Dannielle,
I love this post! It is so nice to see someone write something positive about Christchurch for a change. I recently lived there for 2.5 years, and most other blogs I had come across didn’t have great things to say about it. I also spoke with other travellers in person who say “yeah, Christchurch is boring” which ended that conversation. I think Christchurch is an incredible, and resilient city, and is getting back on its feet.
Lovely to be connected with you.
Safe travels,
Abbi
Dannielle Lily says
Hi Abbi,
I’m glad you enjoyed the post! I think so too, and I’d love to see how Christchurch has evolved since my last visit. What kept you there so long?
Serendipity Tess says
We were shocked when we landed in Christchurch – we heard of others that the city had not been re-built – back we did not imagine it being quite like this. It’s a very sad sight. Christchurch used to be a very beautiful city.
Dannielle Lily says
It’s getting back to its original state!
Gia Kristel de Guia says
Good to see a post about Christchurch! We skipped it when we went to New Zealand since everyone said it’s still recovering and there’s not much to see. Still a lot of work to do, and I guess for New Zealanders (my bf is from NZ) it is quite a sad sight. Thanks for sharing.
Heather Cole says
Firstly, heatwave in Scotland? Well I never! 🙂 It’s good that the city is being rejuvenated, and I hope visitor numbers will one day reach what they used to be. Great to see such a positive slant on it for once!
antonette - we12travel says
When we were back in NZ for our second time, we decided to stay away from CHC, or at least the downtown part. As we flew back to Singapore from there, we could not get around it, but back then it was just about a year after the shock and we just didn’t want to ruin our memories of CHC as one of the best cities we’d ever been to. We’ll be back one day for sure and hopefully we can experience the city as we did all the way back in 2003 🙂
Christa says
How sad that it’s taken so long for Christchurch to rebuild, it’s a city I’ve always wanted to visit!
alison abbott says
It’s great to see you focus on the positive of Christchurch’s recovery. I’ve always wanted to visit there. The economy needs those travel dollars! Love the washing machine Dance O Mat. How can you not smile and enjoy.